Wush Wush Coffee Variety: Profile and Rarity Explained

By James Whitfield · Coffee Varieties · Reading time: 9 min

Quick answer on the Wush Wush coffee variety

Wush Wush is a place before it is a plant. The name belongs to a locality in the Keffa zone of southwestern Ethiopia. On a bag of specialty coffee it now means something else: an Arabica landrace population grown in small quantities in Colombia, sold at a premium for its floral, fruit-forward cup. The label travelled further than the documentation did, and nobody has established how the seed made the same journey.

The essentials

  • A southwestern Ethiopian place name: the Wush Wush locality sits in the Keffa zone, part of the South West Ethiopia Peoples' Region since November 2021.
  • The name is absent from the World Coffee Research Arabica varieties list, which documents 70 varieties.
  • Its commercial career was built in Colombia, not in Ethiopia, where no released variety carries the name.
  • Floral and fruit-forward in the cup (blueberry, vanilla, maple syrup, lavender), with a wide quality spread between lots.
Wush Wush coffee variety, an Ethiopian landrace with a floral, fruit-forward cup
Every Ethiopian landrace expresses its own aromatic profile depending on origin and growing conditions.

Is Wush Wush a place in Ethiopia or a coffee variety?

Start with the map. Wush Wush, often written Wushwush as a single word, is a locality in the Keffa (or Kaffa) zone of southwestern Ethiopia, whose administrative centre is Bonga. The zone belonged to the Southern Nations, Nationalities and Peoples' Region until the 2021 referendum; since November 2021 it has been part of the South West Ethiopia Peoples' Region. Here is the part that surprises most coffee drinkers: inside Ethiopia the place is known for its tea estate, one of the country's few, rather than for a coffee bearing its name.

Landrace describes a coffee population that came out of Ethiopia's natural diversity and farmer selection rather than a breeding programme. Wush Wush fits that description, with one qualification worth stating. Ethiopia's national landrace programme, run by the Jimma Agricultural Research Center, released local varieties for Hararghe, Sidama and Yirgacheffe, Wellega and Limu, under names such as Harusa, Chala, Sinde and Limu-1. None of them is called Wush Wush, and the Keffa zone was not among those priority areas. The name has its career abroad.

How did an Ethiopian place name become a Colombian selling point?

Colombia is where Wush Wush turned into a variety in the commercial sense: a line on a label and a price of its own. US roaster Proud Mary Coffee has been buying Colombian Wush Wush from Nancy and Oscar Maca at Finca El Zafiro, and sells it through its deluxe range. Other high-altitude farms have planted it, in Panama and on a handful of Central American estates, but always on marginal acreage.

The part nobody can document is the journey itself. Green buyers working in Colombia report accounts that contradict each other: material taken from Cenicafé nurseries, seedlings brought straight from Ethiopia for research, cuttings taken from the first Colombian farms to grow it. No date, no intermediary, no research institution settles the question. On this point an admission beats a tidy story: the plant arrived, and how it arrived is not established.

What flavours do Wush Wush lots actually deliver?

The profile is expressive and usually described as intensely fruity. The markers roasters keep returning to:

That list says one thing and hides another: the gap between two Wush Wush lots is enormous. Many go through long or anaerobic fermentations that build a large share of the profile, which makes it hard to separate what the plant contributes from what the processing adds. A light roast is preferred to keep the volatile compounds intact.

Is Wush Wush scarce for agronomic reasons or market reasons?

Both, but not equally, and the order matters. On the agronomic side there is a hole worth naming: no research station publishes a yield figure, a plant stature or a leaf rust rating for this variety. It is absent from the World Coffee Research Arabica varieties list, which documents 70 varieties, from AB3 Java to Villa Sarchi, with exactly those parameters. What circulates about its low yield comes from traders and roasters, not from a published trial.

On the market side the facts are far sharper. Planted areas are tiny, demand concentrates on micro-lots, barista competitions and deluxe menus, and the name does part of the work on its own: it sounds rare and remote. No universal price benchmark can be quoted seriously, since rates vary by farm, harvest year, processing and cupping score. Calling this scarcity a market construction takes nothing away from the best lots; it simply locates where the price comes from.

Why is Wush Wush not simply a second Gesha?

The comparison comes up constantly and it is fair enough: two Ethiopian populations, valued outside Ethiopia, both sold at the premium end. In the cup the difference is clear. Washed Panamanian Gesha is famous for a very intense floral delicacy (jasmine, bergamot) and a light, tea-like body, while Wush Wush leans toward a fruitier, more indulgent profile built on red fruit, vanilla and a rounder sweetness.

The deeper difference is documentary. Panamanian Gesha has been traced back to Ethiopia, it has an entry in the World Coffee Research catalog, and it has a public price reference: at the 2023 Best of Panama auction a washed Gesha from Carmen Estate scoring 96.5 sold for US $10,005/kg. Wush Wush has none of that, no traced lineage, no reference entry, no public auction result to anchor a price. On scoring, Coffee Review put ten Wush Wush samples at an average of 88 points in October 2023, from 81 to 93, against an average of 93 for seven Sidra samples. A good level, a wide spread, and no yardstick.

Summary table

Criterion Wush Wush
Nature of the namePlace name: Wush Wush locality, Keffa zone, southwestern Ethiopia
Botanical statusArabica landrace, lineage not traced
World Coffee Research catalogAbsent from the list of 70 Arabica varieties
Commercial cultivationMainly Colombia; Panama and Central America, marginally
Cup profileRed fruit, blueberry, vanilla, maple syrup, lavender
YieldDescribed as low by the trade, not measured by a research station
AvailabilityMicro-lots, limited releases, competition coffees
Public price referenceNone: no auction lot serves as a benchmark

Frequently asked questions

What is the Wush Wush coffee variety?

Wush Wush is first of all a locality in the Keffa zone of southwestern Ethiopia. On specialty coffee labels the same word now stands for an Arabica landrace population grown in small quantities in Colombia and, more marginally, in Panama and Central America.

Why is Wush Wush coffee so expensive?

Planted areas are tiny and demand is concentrated on micro-lots, barista competitions and roasters' deluxe menus. The name itself does part of the commercial work. No universal price benchmark exists: the price depends on the farm, the harvest, the processing and the lot's cupping score.

What does Wush Wush coffee taste like?

The descriptors roasters return to are red fruit and blueberry, vanilla, maple syrup and lavender, with pronounced sweetness. The spread between lots is wide: in October 2023 Coffee Review scored ten Wush Wush samples from 81 to 93 points, for an average of 88.

Is Wush Wush listed in the World Coffee Research varieties catalog?

No. The World Coffee Research Arabica varieties list documents 70 varieties, from AB3 Java to Villa Sarchi, and Wush Wush is not among them. That is why no yield figure, plant stature or disease resistance rating validated by a research station is available for this variety.

Sources

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