What is Indian Monsooned Malabar coffee?

Monsooned Malabar is a unique Indian coffee made by exposing green Arabica or Robusta beans, for eight to sixteen weeks, to the humid winds of the south-west monsoon along India's Malabar Coast. The process swells the bean, bleaches its colour, strips out almost all acidity and yields a heavy-bodied, earthy and woody cup with soft spice and cocoa notes.

Monsooned Malabar was born out of a commercial accident. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Indian coffee crossed the Indian Ocean in the humid holds of sailing ships and took several months to reach Europe. Beans arrived in London swollen, lighter in colour, with a mellowed cup that European roasters had grown fond of. When steam ships and sealed containers arrived in the early 20th century, the profile disappeared — and Indian producers rebuilt it artificially, first on the Karnataka coast and then on the Kerala coast, by exposing dry beans to the south-west monsoon between June and September.

The protocol is precise: after harvest and natural or washed processing, green beans are spread in layers 10 to 20 centimetres thick in open warehouses facing the Indian Ocean. For eight to sixteen weeks, the humid winds (80-90 % relative humidity) penetrate the bean, which swells, turns a pale golden colour, and loses most of its acidity through enzymatic reactions and light controlled fermentation. Workers rake and sort the beans regularly to prevent mould.

India produces around 350,000 tonnes of coffee a year overall, split roughly 40 % Arabica and 60 % Robusta, mainly in Karnataka (Chikmagalur, Coorg), Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Monsooned Malabar AA (Arabica) is the flagship grade, but a Monsooned Malabar Robusta is also popular with Italian roasters for its espresso punch. The Coffee Board of India manages a certification spec that protects the name.

In the cup, it is the exact opposite of a floral Ethiopian: almost no acidity, very heavy body, earthy notes, tobacco, leather, bitter cocoa, soft spices (nutmeg, clove). It shines in moka pot, classic espresso, French press. In Belgium, it sometimes appears in small percentages inside specialty blends, but remains mostly a historical curiosity and a useful counterpoint on a tasting flight to show drinkers how wide the coffee spectrum really is.

Monsooned Malabar snapshot